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100% natural
The natural pH+ increaser for pools is a mineral-based alkalizing product that raises the water's pH in a controlled, safe way, without aggressive chemical compounds. Maintaining the pH between 7.2 and 7.6 is essential for chlorine to work correctly, to protect swimmers' skin, and to prevent damage to the pool's lining and machinery. Puerto Verde's natural pH+ increaser is formulated with food-grade minerals that leave no toxic residues in the water.
What is natural pH+ increaser and what is it for?
Pool water pH is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity on a scale of 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is neutral; below that is acidic and above is alkaline. For pool use, the optimal range is between 7.2 and 7.6. When the pH drops below 7.2, the water is said to be acidic, which causes eye irritation, equipment corrosion, and partial inactivation of chlorine.
The pH+ increaser neutralizes the water's acidity and gradually raises its alkalinity. Unlike caustic soda (sodium hydroxide), our natural pH+ increaser raises the pH gradually and in a controlled manner, without the risk of sudden overdose.
Very Acidic0–6.5
Low6.5–7.2
✓ Optimal7.2–7.6
High7.6–8.0
Very High+8.0
Pool water pH range, from most acidic (left) to most alkaline (right)
When do you need to raise your pool's pH?
- The pH test shows less than 7.2 with test strips or a photometer
- Eye or skin irritation in swimmers after swimming
- Chlorine is consumed very quickly even if you add it regularly
- Strong chlorine smell despite seemingly correct levels (chloramines form in acidic water)
- The water has a greenish or cloudy appearance without apparent cause
- After heavy rain, which usually lowers pH due to rainwater acidity
- After adding products like granular chlorine, dichloroisocyanurate, or pH reducer in excess
- If you haven't treated the water for a while and the pH hasn't been checked in over 1 week
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Advantages of Puerto Verde's natural pH+ increaser
Natural mineral origin
100% mineral, no synthetic additives
Gradual action
Raises pH in a controlled manner, without sudden jumps
Improves chlorine efficiency
With correct pH, chlorine is up to 5x more effective
Safe for swimmers
No irritants or toxic residues in the water
Protects equipment
Prevents corrosion of pump, filter, and liner
Biodegradable
No negative environmental impact
Natural pH+ increaser vs. conventional products
| Feature | Natural pH+ (mineral) | Caustic soda / synthetic products |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Natural mineral | Industrial synthetic |
| Action on pH | ✓ Gradual and controlled | ✗ Can be abrupt |
| Overdosing risk | ✓ Low | ✗ High |
| Skin/eye irritant | ✓ No | ✗ Yes in concentration |
| Biodegradable | ✓ Yes | ✗ Not always |
| Salt / UV compatible | ✓ Yes | ✓ Yes |
| Also raises alkalinity | ✓ Yes | ✗ No (pH only) |
| Safe for domestic use | ✓ Yes | ✗ Requires caution |
How to apply natural pH+ increaser step by step
⚠ Before you start: Never mix pH+ increaser with other products in the same bucket, nor add it to the water at the same time as chlorine. Wait at least 30 minutes between adding each product.
- Measure current pH: Use test strips, a liquid test kit, or a digital photometer. Note the value — you need to know how much to raise it to calculate the dose.
- Calculate the dose: Use the pH and alkalinity calculator to get the exact grams based on your pool's volume and the required pH increase.
- Dissolve the product: Add the calculated dose to a bucket with clean pool water. Stir until completely dissolved. Never add it directly as powder to the water.
- Pour with pump running: With the filtration system running, slowly distribute the solution around the perimeter of the pool, especially near the water returns.
- Wait 4–6 hours: Let the pump circulate the water so the product distributes evenly.
- Re-measure pH: Check the value. If it's still below 7.2, repeat with a smaller additional dose. Never add large doses at once.
- Final objective: pH between 7.2 and 7.6. Once in range, measure chlorine and adjust if necessary. If the water is cloudy after adjustment, our natural flocculant dosage calculator can help clarify it.
💡 Pro tip: If the pH consistently drops in a few days, the problem may be total alkalinity (TA) that is too low. Alkalinity acts as a "buffer" that stabilizes the pH. If your TA is below 80 ppm, first raise the alkalinity with our alkalinity increaser, then adjust the pH. The alkalinity calculator helps with both parameters.
Indicative dosage of pH+ increaser based on volume and required increase
The indicated doses are indicative for raising the pH by approximately 0.2 units. For larger increases, calculate by multiplying or use the calculator.
| Pool volume | 0.2 unit increase | 0.5 unit increase | 1.0 unit increase |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20 m³ | 100 g | 250 g | 500 g |
| 32 m³ | 160 g | 400 g | 800 g |
| 50 m³ | 250 g | 625 g | 1,250 g |
| 64 m³ | 320 g | 800 g | 1,600 g |
| 80 m³ | 400 g | 1,000 g | 2,000 g |
Actual values may vary depending on total alkalinity, temperature, and water hardness. Always use the pH and alkalinity calculator for greater accuracy.
The relationship between pH and chlorine effectiveness
pH is the factor that most influences the disinfecting effectiveness of chlorine. At pH 7.2, free chlorine has a disinfecting effectiveness of ~65%. At pH 8.0, that effectiveness drops to ~20%. This means that if your pH is too high or too low, you would need to add 3–5 times more chlorine to achieve the same disinfecting effect. Maintaining pH in the optimal range is, therefore, the most cost-effective measure to keep water clean and safe.
| Water pH | Available active chlorine (HOCl) | Status |
|---|---|---|
| 6.5 | 90% | Very acidic — irritating |
| 7.0 | 75% | Acidic — corrosive |
| 7.2 | ~65% | ✓ Optimal |
| 7.4 | ~55% | ✓ Optimal |
| 7.6 | ~45% | ✓ Acceptable |
| 8.0 | ~20% | ✗ Too high |
| 8.5 | ~9% | ✗ Ineffective |
Frequently asked questions about natural pH+ increaser
The time varies depending on the pool volume and filtration power, but generally the pH starts to rise in 30–60 minutes. To see the full and uniform effect throughout the entire body of water, wait 4–6 hours with the pump running before taking the final measurement. Avoid measuring immediately after adding it, as the concentration near the pouring point will be higher than elsewhere.
Yes, as long as the pH is already within the 7.2–7.6 range and free chlorine is between 1–3 ppm. Wait at least 4–6 hours after application for the product to distribute well. If you added a large dose (more than 500 g in a 30 m³ pool), wait until the next measurement to confirm the pH is correct before swimming.
They are distinct but related parameters. pH measures the current acidity of the water; total alkalinity (TA) measures the water's ability to resist pH changes (it's the "buffer"). If you raise the pH but alkalinity is low, the pH will quickly drop again. The correct approach is: first adjust alkalinity to 80–120 ppm with an alkalinity increaser, and then fine-tune the pH with the pH+ increaser. The alkalinity and pH calculator helps with both corrections.
During the swimming season, it is recommended to measure pH 2–3 times per week at a minimum, and always before adding chlorine or other products. Factors that cause pH to change rapidly: intensive pool use, rain, high temperatures, addition of chemicals, and chlorine itself. A pH out of range for several days can damage the liner, pump, and swimmers' health.
Yes, completely. Our natural pH+ increaser is compatible with all disinfection systems: conventional chlorination, salt chlorination, UV, ozone, and copper-silver. In fact, in saltwater pools, pH control is especially important because electrolyzers work better and last longer in water with stable pH around 7.2–7.4.
If the pH repeatedly drops within 2–3 days, the most common causes are: (1) low total alkalinity (below 80 ppm), which means the water lacks buffering capacity; (2) use of acidic chlorine like dichloroisocyanurate (stabilized tablets) which lowers pH with each addition; (3) frequent rain; or (4) many swimmers contributing sweat and lotions. The most effective long-term solution is to raise total alkalinity to 80–120 ppm.
A pH above 8.0 is just as problematic as a low one. It causes: greatly reduced chlorine effectiveness (the water may be left without disinfectant protection), precipitation of calcium that clouds the water and creates deposits on equipment, and possible irritation to skin and mucous membranes. If you've gone too far, use a pH reducer (natural citric acid or muriatic acid) to lower it. Correction is quick and simple with the correct doses.
Yes. Puerto Verde's natural pH+ increaser is a mineral completely compatible with biopool and phytoremediation systems. It does not negatively affect microbiology or aquatic purifying plants, making it the recommended option for these types of installations.
It depends on your pool's volume, frequency of use, the type of chlorine you use, and the water's alkalinity. As a reference, a 30–35 m³ pool with intensive family use might consume between 1 and 3 kg of pH+ increaser over a season from May to September. Use the pH and alkalinity calculator to estimate consumption for each correction.
They are related products but with different effects. The pH+ increaser raises the pH more significantly and is used when the pH is low. The alkalinity increaser primarily raises the water's total alkalinity and stabilizes the pH more gently, preventing it from dropping quickly again. For strong pH corrections, use the pH+ increaser; to stabilize the water long-term, use the alkalinity increaser.
Adjusting the pH is the first step, but if the water remains cloudy or has suspended particles, the next step is a natural flocculant, which groups fine particles together so that the filter can retain them. Use our natural flocculant calculator to calculate the exact dose according to your pool's volume.
Don't know how much pH+ increaser you need?
Enter your pool's volume and current pH, and we'll calculate the exact dose instantly.
